Why your dog pulls
Pulling is self-rewarding. Your dog pulls toward an interesting smell, you follow, and the dog learns that pulling is how walks work. This is not dominance or disobedience. It is simple cause and effect, which means you can change the effect.
Yanking the leash back, choke chains, and prong collars suppress pulling through discomfort. They do not teach the dog what to do instead, and they can create leash reactivity and fear. We will teach instead.
Step 1: Be a tree
The moment the leash goes tight, stop. Plant your feet, stand still, and wait. Do not pull back, do not say anything, just become boring. The instant your dog turns, steps back, or even glances at you so the leash slackens, say "yes" and move forward again. Forward motion becomes the reward for a loose leash.
The first few walks will be slow. You might cover half a block in ten minutes. That is normal and it is temporary. Most dogs figure out the new rule within a week.
Step 2: Reward the position you want
Do not only stop for pulling. Actively pay your dog for walking where you want them. Every few steps, when your dog is at your side with a loose leash, mark it with "yes" and deliver a treat at your leg. You are building a strong habit: the sweet spot next to you pays out constantly, while the end of the leash pays nothing.
Step 3: Use the right equipment
A front-clip harness (the leash attaches at the chest) makes pulling physically awkward without pain, which gives your training a head start. Avoid retractable leashes for training walks: they teach the dog that tension is normal and give you no control. A standard 6-foot leash and a well-fitted harness are all you need.
Step 4: Practice in boring places first
Do your first training reps somewhere dull, like your driveway or a quiet street, not the exciting park. Dogs learn fastest with the fewest distractions, then you gradually add challenge. Five focused minutes of leash practice beats a frustrating 30-minute walk where you both rehearse pulling.